FAQ's

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If your unit is only a couple of years old, then what you are seeing is probably due to a maintenance issue. Air conditioners remove both heat and humidity from a room. That humidity condenses on the air conditioner coils and drains into the base pan where it is used to cool the unit. Occasionally, mold or mildew will take advantage of this high moisture environment. The only way to alleviate this situation is to have the unit professionally cleaned.
Air conditioners remove both heat and humidity from a room. This process produces condensation which runs off into the base pan. This condensation is then used to cool the hot condenser coil which improves the unit’s performance. How do I determine the proper cooling capacity for my space? See the sizing guide in our product section specifications for specific information on choosing the right size unit for your space.
You should consider a number of variables when sizing a unit, such as location, room insulation, how many people will be using the room, size and location of windows, to name a few. Our Sizing Guide will give you an approximate size. You can always call us to conduct a heat-loss study at your location to determine exactly what type and size unit is best for your application.
Absolutely! One of the best options is a ductless split system because the indoor unit can be mounted virtually anywhere. Depending on the system, the indoor and outdoor units can be separated by up to 164 feet with maximum height differences of 98 feet. So even if the rooms that need cooling are located in the building’s interior or on separate floors, we can find you a specific ductless system that will fit the application.
Your unit is probably too large for your room and is “short cycling.” This happens when cold air from an oversized unit bounces off the wall and back towards the unit, creating a room-temperature reading that’s cooler than the actual temperature. This false reading causes the compressor to shut off before the room has truly reached your desired set-point. While the compressor is off, the “real” room air enters the intake grille, and the thermostat reads that the room is no longer at the set temperature, so it turns the compressor back on. Your unit cycles off and on approximately every two to three minutes to reach the set-point. While the air coming out of the unit is cold, the compressor does not remain on long enough to cool the entire room. The only solution is to correctly size the unit’s capacity to the room size and demand. A unit’s capacity is determined by its Btu. Larger rooms need a higher-capacity unit (a greater Btu) to cool correctly. But a unit that is too large for the room will reach its set point too quickly and the compressor will turn off before the air conditioner has had adequate time to remove humidity from the air.
Please do not cover the outside of your air conditioner unless you first remove the unit from the sleeve, clean it and dry the base pan. Most of the air conditioners are designed to hold water in the base pan. If the air conditioner is covered, the water cannot evaporate, and mold and mildew will form. If the air conditioner is installed per the instructions, you should not have problems with air coming in or around the unit. Everything in the rear of the air conditioner is sealed so snow and rain cannot harm the air conditioner.
Depending on the type of installation and cooling capacity you need, you may find solutions that you never knew existed. Please call or email us to get a complete understanding of the features and benefits of multiple products.
Many ductless split systems are ENERGY STAR® qualified and eligible for the Federal Tax Rebate for ENERGY STAR® products. ENERGY STAR® qualified window and thru-the-wall room air conditioners are not eligible for the Federal Tax rebate but may qualify for a rebate from your local utility company. Check with ENERGY STAR® to see what rebates apply to your area.

Icing can be caused by a number of factors. Units that have not been cleaned over a long period of time may have coils and fins clogged by dust, dirt or debris. Clogged coils and fins restrict air flow through the unit, which can cause the compressor to work even harder – so hard, that it may reduce the coil temperature below the normal range in an attempt to make up for the lost cooling power from the blocked coils.

Another potential cause is running a unit with a very cold set point (i.e. turning the target temperature down very low) on low fan speed for an extended period of time. This can cause excess condensate to build upon the coils, further lowering the temperature of the coil and leading to icing.

This problem generally has one of two causes: the unit was not installed properly with the outside lower than the inside to allow for adequate exterior drainage, or there may be a clog in the drain pan where condensate collects during operation.

If you feel that neither of these conditions exists, check for air leaking in from the outside anywhere around the unit. Air leaks will cause condensation to form on the outside of the unit, and this water will drain into your room. If there are any air leaks, resealing them should address the problem.

Your air conditioner is designed to cool in warm weather when the outside temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and below 115 degrees Fahrenheit, so it won’t cool a room if it’s cool outside. If you want to cool a room in the winter, set your unit to Fan Only mode (if it has one) and set the Fresh Air/Exhaust control to Fresh Air. This will bring in a supply of outside air. You can do this as long as the outside air temperature is above freezing.
We suggest checking filters monthly. If you have a disposable type filter, (these usually have a cardboard edge), and if it is dirty, just replace it. Don’t attempt to clean it. Some higher efficiency 1″ pleated air filters can go up to three months before needing replacement. But in the higher-use seasons, it’s better to check more often.
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